Dress Nr 2
Dress option 2:
A short knee length dress: silk chiffon (gauze 4.5) 2.70 m x 114 cm or 90 cm wide; merino wool prefelt 50-60 cm (1.20m wide); silk pieces of 70 cm (Pongé 05 /silk habotai 05).
This dress is semi-fit. More often I use A-line design for short dresses. However, this dress can also be made as a long one.
Roses and petals laid out throughout the fabric until the lower edge. The dress is flexible.
A photo, a drawing and design options
The scarf: 1.80 up to 2.20 m long and 55 cm wide silk chiffon, Merino wool prefelt 30-40 cm long and 1.20 m wide; silk pieces (50-70 cm).
This scarf is a wonderful accessory to a simple outfit or a beautiful gift to a beloved person.
Make a rose ornament the way you like it, just pay attention to the scarf edges. In the scarf design I lay out the ornament partially covering the edges. I like that the ornament fixates the edges in some places but elsewhere the edge stays untreated and light. If the edge were fixated with wool all the way long it would lose its lightness and tighten up.
Photo, design options
NATURAL PLANT DYEING
Oftentimes I dye the fabrics with plants because in this technique texture is the most important, yet I recommend not to exaggerate with colours. It’s best to follow design principles and stop at the right time. I have experienced when everything is too much because the technique opens up to fantasy, and is even addictive, that is if you are a kinaesthetic of course.
You may work with already coloured fabrics, if you have no intention to pay so much time to the dress.
The grey dresses and the scarf in this MasterClass are dyed with acorns.
Option 1. Simmer a handful of acorns in a big pot and let them sit in the dye bath for 24 hours. The next day, heat the pot for 1 hour, then allow the dye bath to cool and strain off the dye bath with no bits of acorn left in there.
Add 5 grams or one teaspoon of iron sulphate, dissolved in hot water. Stir well. The liquid becomes dark grey because acorn tannins react with iron. Before dyeing, wash and rinse out the fabric. Soak it in the hot dye bath and stir evenly for 20 minutes up to half an hour, or less, until you reach the desired colour. You don’t boil the silk.
Option 2. Take haritaki powder (Myrobalan) ready for use. Pour the tea, leave it hot or heat it up, soak it and add the iron. You will get a nice violet grey shade.
Warmly red fabric has been dyed with a madder. Dip the fabric in a dye bath with two teaspoons of alum, let it sit overnight, then strain off the dye bath. Attention! Don’t boil the madder bath, just heat it up until steam vapour starts rising off the water. Let it sit overnight. If you boil the madder, the dye becomes brown. Don’t use the iron because it also makes this colour brownish.
Cold red fabric was dyed with cochineal. Dip the fabric in a dye bath of alum, let it sit overnight. Soak it and dye with cochineal. If you use iron, you will get a dark purple colour. With no iron, you will get pink to bright cochineal colour.
If you prefer red colour, mix up madder and cochineal (no iron). You can also use sappanwood to get red. Red colours can be bought here dharmatrading.com.
You get silk in khaki colour with red or brown onion skins to which you add ½ - 1 teaspoon ferrous sulphate.
You get silk in light salmon colour using avocado skins and pits, no iron which makes the colour brownish.
Every dress needs an undergarment because the fabric is transparent. I recommend to sew it from natural material - silk or viscose, or buy it in your preferred colour. Dress design will change depending on its undergarment. This way you can easily change the dress according to your mood.
black chiffon, red roses with prefelt - red or black undergarment;
dark chiffon, white roses with black prefelt - white or dark undergarment;
grey chiffon, beige roses with black wool prefelt - light grey undergarment etc.